...plus three weeks tripled and an endless measure of time that comes in threes.*
So it feels like I've walked around Singapore enough to span the said period.
One long year after my first trip to the city state may be too late to write--even in retrospect--about two separate yet intertwined experiences, simply by virtue of them having the same setting.
Back in March 2008, I hatched my first international trip on my own, wanting to visit my brother
_lexizzle and as a birthday gift to myself. It was my first time to pay for my own airfare and accommodations--basically my first foray into 'grown-up' travel.
Of course, Singapore's reputation does precede itself, so you step into the place expecting that clinical precision, the unflinching discipline and yes, the cleanliness. True, it is a very orderly place, and you cannot question the efficiency of
every single thing. If anything, their transport system alone makes me excited to commute and get on the next train. Still, the city pulls some surprises, and oh yes (*gasp*) the formerly law-abiding people of Singapore actually jaywalk!
Some people might ask why one would like to vacation in this country. If you enjoy long, alternately hot, possibly rainy walks during the day and that unmatched feeling of strolling about safely at nightfall; if you find relaxation in malling and cityscapes; if you want to be able to explore an "entire" country in a matter of days; then just maybe its charm will not be lost on you. At least, that's how it was and is for me.
There's the food. I relish sampling the local hawker flavors--from the nearby
Kopitiam, to
Newton's tasty delights, to
Maxwell for the Chicken rice, to this Roti place in a land seemingly so far away. My favorites remain to be the Oyster Omelette and the Sugar Cane juice. And for me, well there's the music. CD shopping at HMV, and concerts at the
Mosaic Music Festival, particularly the
Lee Ritenour show PB and I watched, where
Kurt Elling made a surprise appearance.
And there are the treks on foot. I don't think I could ever get the feel of a city if my feet did't hit the concrete pavements or the winding paths. There are the quiet solitary morning walks in
Chinatown, and even quieter moments in reflective and artsy
Ann Siang Hill,
Club Street and
Erskine Road.
The odd hours of night are there for more adventurous explorations of less populated places. With my Singa-boy brother, we toured
Holland V,
Dempsey Hill, and basically walked entire lengths of roads past midnight. The tourist urges are satisfied walking around
Clarke Quay,
Sentosa and of course,
Orchard Road. In our pursuit for some night life on the shopping strip, we walked at an ungodly hour until we found the lone 24-hour establishment, it seemed--
The Balcony near Heeren.
No trip would be complete without me falling into the trap of my strange sense of direction. En route to the
Millward Brown office on
Beach Road, I overshoot my stop, and end up in some far-off land (Singapore Stadium, I think). No worries for me as I hiked it back on foot, a longish distance yes, and found my way back.
Yes somehow, I find it liberating to walk around leisurely, even aimlessly, and with the purpose to really get lost in it all, without fearing the unknown. And as crazy as it sounds, maybe Singapore is the perfect place for such a foolish pasttime. It could be that all-too-safe feeling, the familiar Filipino faces--both strangers and friends, or even being mistaken for a local and spoken to in Chinese dialects. Whatever it is, I just feel I can get lost, find my way and walk another 25 years.
And so on the 26th year......I return to Singapore at just about the same time I went last year. This time, the impetus being a concert of the
Brad Mehldau Trio at the same Mosaic Music Festival. Now I have watched the man
perform solo, but never with this famed group. So yet again, I decide to up and go: to watch Brad, to visit my brother and to take a vacation as a gift to myself.
Little did I know, as I pondered my simple plan, that this 26th year would be quite the change from my (mostly) lone adventure last year. The concerts, the food trips, the endless walks all still there. But now, with family around, plus old, new and blossoming friendships keeping me in good company; What a difference a year makes indeed, and what a wonderful, dizzying, dazzling change it can be.
One year after, no longer did I limit myself to just CD shopping, lending myself
a bit of clothes shopping at the treasure trove of the
Bugis Street Market. Financially, I had to budget more than my usual five-dollars a meal or less. There was more frequent dining in upscale places, as I expanded my repertoire beyond the usual hawker fare. Lazy Sunday lunch at Harding Road's
PS Cafe, drinks at
Indochine in Clark Quay, a smorgasbord of a meal at
Brussels Sprouts in Robertson Walk, the novelty and deliciousness of the cafeteria-style
Ikea Food, sinful and lustful desserts at
Laurent Bernard Chocolatier, and that wonderful last steak dinner at the tony
Les Bouchons Rive Gauche.
Then there was not just one, but two concerts--the more-than-amazing double bill of
Eliane Elias and
Ivan Lins, and the virtuosity of jazz improvisation from the Brad Mehldau Trio. Eliane Elias and Mehldau happen to be two of my most favorite jazz artists that those two nights of musical prowess displayed, deserve separate entries themselves. Let me just say though that these played out quite differently from what I'd originally expected.
A returning tourist does have her favorites but also discovers new haunts, such as the expat territory
Robertson Quay, with its colorful Alkaff Bridge (painted by Filipina, Pacita Abad), that reflects beautifully on the water by night. The Bugis area, with its street market that I could not get enough of, and where I pretty much set free the reigned in shopper. There's also
Ikea, delivering homes styled in a little while.
And just as before, I walked on, in frantic search for the best price of the Eliane Elias
Bossa Nova Stories CD, down Orchard, flitting from one train station to the next, rushing from hotel room to meeting places to Concert Halls. Walking as if the past 25 years were not enough.
But you see, even just after a year, maybe three and a half years, let alone 25 years, those things that I thought were the same, could very well have changed without my noticing. And walking the same roads, the same idyllic streets in Chinatown, but this time perhaps at the day's end, the path turns quite differently. I roam the streets with a renewed twinkle in my eye, seeing everything through a tinted glow, as Club street also transforms with brimming and buzzing energy, as shops, bars and restaurants start their business for the evening.
Singapore is no longer just the land of sterile rule, stern discipline, with no bubblegum allowed. To me it has strangely evolved into a city of musical discovery and gastronomic pleasure. More so, of the charmed--solitary or accompanied, but always seemingly endless-- walks; the heady, giddy memories; and a promise of what the future may hold.
Even so, old habits are hard to erase, and I find myself getting down several stops too early on my way to PB's place at
Spottiswoode Park. Lost and confused once more, but-- I'd like to believe, a little more knowledgeable in the direction I am to take. Recession and crises notwithstanding, the "Singapore dream" is not lost, perhaps it's only just begun.
If in the course of this 26th year, I should find myself losing my way--never mind the roads I'll be walking then. I know can trace back my steps, anchor myself and say,
We'll always have Singapore, won't we? --March 31, 2009
* * *
*And there is apparently a character limit to a journal subject title. I realize this could have been two entries, but nah, it loses meaning that way.
**Thanks to my wonderful hosts, old and newfound friends, who were all such lovely, generous and enjoyable company -- Patty, Cean, Jen, Jeremy, Jules and Benson.
***Ashley, thanks for being a constant source of fun and amusement. :)
***Fellow vacationeers: Mom, Dad, ah just the three of us again, memories of 1983.
****To Starhubber PB, for the past two years--tour guide in one and wise counselor in the other. I got more than my fair share of the Hubber Bonus, for sure. Singapore just isn't the same without you.
*****And Jody, thanks for Singapore '09, we'll always have this same damned place.
+Pictures have so far been posted on Facebook. More to come on my Multiply.
++Edit: Pictures on Multiply are up. :)